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daiwa sealine 450h rebuild

 
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alantani

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Joined: 23 Sep 2007
Posts: 44
Location: saratoga, california, usa

PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 9:04 am    Post subject: daiwa sealine 450h rebuild Reply with quote

here's another diamond in the rough.

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Daiwa/Daiwa%20SL450H,%20450HW.pdf

and here's your reel.



let's start with the left side plate. back out the three left side plate screw A's (key #2) and the two left side side plate screw B's (key #3) one at a time, grease the screw holes and re-install the screws.



now back out the three right side plate screw A's (key #4Cool and two right side plate screw B's (key #49).



set them aside.



you now have a frame assembly (key #16), a spool (key #24) and right side plate assembly (key #36).



aluminum frames tend to corrode. take an old toothbrush and spread the old grease around a little, then wipe off all the excess.



lube the left side plate bearing (key #13).



ok, the wing nuts have to go.





you have a choice of replacing just the clamp nuts and bolts, or the entire clamp all together. the bolts are penn part #34-35, the hex nuts are #149-200, the clamp nuts are 149-45, the bolt/hex nut/clamp nut kit is #34C-45, the penn clamp is #33-340, and the entire kit is called a 33-340sp kit. these are all penn parts.



for this reel, we're going to replace everything but the clamp. nice, huh!



install the spool (key #24) into the frame assembly (key #16) and set both aside.



now, for the right side plate. remove the handle lock screw (key #61).



remove the handle screw (key #60). a penn wrench works well here.



remove the handle (key #59) and handle washer (key #5Cool.



remove the star drag (key #57).



remove the tension springs (key #56). note that they are cupped "()".



remove the three set plate screw A's (key #42) and the single set plate screw B (key #63).



the set plate assembly (key #25) will drop out as a unit.



here is an exploded view of the gear cluster. the stock daiwa drag washers will be replaced with a single penn ht-100 #6-855 and a set of five penn ht-100 #6-113h's. the #6-113h drag washers are thinner that the stock daiwa drag washers and will be doubled up to maintain the proper height.



we will be very happy to be replacing these particle board drag washers with penn drag washers.



slap a nice, thick, juice coat of cal's drag grease on the drag washers. don't worry about the excess. it will just squeeze out the sides.



rebuild the drag stack, including the spacing sleeve (key #55).



replace the set plate screws (key #'s 42 and 63), place two fingers over the screws and flip over the side plate (key #36).



lube the right side plate bearing (key #36).



carefully align the set plate assembly (key #25) onto the right side plate (key #36).



with a right hand assist, flip over the right side plate assembly (key #36) and tighten down the set plate screws (key #'s 42 and 63).



make sure the anti-reverse mechanism is functioning properly.



make sure the clutch lever (key #39) is functioning properly.



grease the screw holes on the right side of the frame (key #16).



install the harness lug (key #1Cool and hold it in place.



install the right side plate assembly (key #36).



install the right side plate screws (key #'s 48 and 49), long ones on the bottom!



adjust the spool adjusting cap (key #46) until there is zero load and zero freeplay.



give the spool a spin. let's hope you don't have to replace any bearings. they might not be easy to remove.



install the tension springs (key #56) in a "()" orientation.



install the star drag (key #57). turn it down until it won't turn any more. you should be clear of the shoulder of the set plate drive shaft and still be able to turn the star without banging into the spool adjusting cap (key #46).



install the handle washer (key #5Cool.



at this point, we're going to install a new handle grip. i'll drill out the back of the rivet for the old grip, then remove the grip and throw it away. i'll need the arm only.



this is the latest prototype. it has a 9 degree offset and is over an inch in diameter. it is huge compared to the stock grip on the right. i've had a few guys tell me that it looks too big. my response has been that they are not catching big enough fish!



install the new handle (key #59) and handle screw (key #60).



install the handle lock screw (key #61).



done!



now, for a few comments...... the sealine 450H is a real diamond in the rough. let's compare daiwa sealine 450h to the 4/0 penn 113hlw. the spool size of the daiwa sealine 450h on the right hand side is about the same size as the wide spool 4/0 penn senator 113hlw.



the drag range is also about the same. with greased carbon fiber drag washers, the functional drag range for both reels is 10-20#'s with an absolute maximum drag of about 25#'s. because of the risk of damage to the main gears, i would recommend keeping the drag below 20#'s. once you change out the drags, the performance of the two reels is identical. the main advantage of the daiwa sealine 450h is the aluminum frame. a similar upgrade for the penn is $80 for the frame alone. the daiwa sealine 450h is available for $120, the penn 113hlw is available for $130. with a $10 drag washer upgrade, you can have an all aluminum "4/0 wide" daiwa that will perform as well as a penn. honestly, the performance of the two reels will be identical, but because of the all aluminum frame, i will vote for the daiwa sealine 450h to edge out the penn 113hlw as the best in its class.
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